Remembering the N.S. cheesemaking legend who was a staple at Halifax market
Willem van den Hoek, also known affectionately as That Dutchman, passed away last week after battling a long illness. For over 40 years, Van den Hoek dedicated his life to creating authentic Gouda cheese at his family’s farm in Economy, N.S. His absence was profoundly felt at the Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market, where he manned the stall for decades, engaging customers in lively discussions and debates.
The shelves at the market were uncharacteristically bare, devoid of the usual array of Gouda, Dragon’s Breath blue cheese, and other delicacies made at the family farm. With only two bouquets of flowers, a printed Facebook post announcing his passing, and a sympathy card expressing heartfelt condolences, the void left by Van den Hoek’s absence was starkly evident. A cherished figure at the market, he relished engaging with customers and neighbors, challenging norms, and exploring different perspectives on various topics.
Together with his wife Maja, Van den Hoek established That Dutchman’s Cheese Farm in 1980, after relocating to Canada from the Netherlands in 1970. Their venture into artisanal cheese-making was pioneering, introducing Nova Scotians to the flavors of authentic Dutch Gouda when the local cheese scene was predominantly limited to sharp cheddar. Over the years, as demand for artisanal cheeses grew, the couple expanded their operations, opening an animal farm and nature park for visitors to enjoy.
Though he was a skilled businessman, Van den Hoek’s true passion lay in dreaming, sparking new projects with boundless optimism and creativity. His son, Cees van den Hoek, fondly recollected his father’s belief in the adage, “If you build it, they will come,” illustrating his unwavering faith in the power of innovation and perseverance. Even in his absence, Van den Hoek’s legacy lives on through his daughter Margaretha, who now oversees the family business, ensuring its continuity and dedication to quality craftsmanship.
A memorial for Van den Hoek is scheduled to take place at the Peg in Masstown, where friends, family, and patrons will gather to honor his memory and celebrate his life. With a legacy deeply rooted in the spirit of entrepreneurship, creativity, and community, Van den Hoek’s impact on Nova Scotia’s culinary landscape will forever be cherished. The spirit of That Dutchman, his unwavering passion for cheese-making, and his enduring commitment to excellence will continue to resonate with all those who had the privilege of crossing paths with this cheesemaking legend.