Shein’s speedy fashion store opening in Paris causes controversy
When Shein decided to open its first physical store in the trendy Le Marais neighborhood in Paris, it probably envisioned a glamorous entrance into the physical retail world. However, the reality on the ground was quite different. The e-commerce giant’s first brick-and-mortar location was positioned on the entire top floor of the iconic BHV Marais department store, located opposite Paris City Hall since 1856. Shein plans to expand its presence by opening five more stores in similar department stores across France soon.
Despite having many options for its physical stores, Shein deliberately chose France, boasting of honoring the country’s rich fashion heritage. Nevertheless, the reaction to its arrival was met with significant pushback from all corners of Paris. Concerns over the brand’s environmental impact and labor practices brought together various stakeholders in the fashion industry, politicians, and regular citizens. Critics argue that Shein’s operations undercut European competitors due to its vast inventory turnover and extremely low prices, offering items ranging from $10 dresses to $20 sneakers.
In the days leading up to the store opening, governmental officials urged BHV to reconsider hosting Shein. Additionally, France initiated an investigation into Shein for selling child-like sex dolls on its platform, leading the Finance Minister to threaten a nationwide ban. Despite the controversy and pressure, BHV’s owner, Frédéric Merlin, stood firm on the decision to host Shein, prompting more than a dozen brands to announce their departure from the store in protest.
Carine Pechavy, the owner of a French candlestick company, decided to withdraw her products from BHV after learning about Shein’s arrival. She expressed her disapproval of being associated with Shein, stating, “Shein represents everything I fight against. We want to make durable items from sustainable materials that are meant to last in people’s homes. We are not about overconsumption at all.” Concerns about the department store’s future prompted BHV employees to stage a walkout in protest against Shein’s arrival, fearing for the jobs of the 1,500 employees.
The discontent extended beyond the department store, leading to the launch of a petition titled “Paris deserves better than Shein,” which garnered over 110,000 signatures. Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo expressed reservations about Shein’s presence in the city, citing conflicting ecological and social ambitions. Additionally, la Banque des territoires severed a significant investment deal with BHV’s parent company, denouncing the partnership with Shein as a betrayal of values and a breach of trust.
The fashion industry collectively criticized BHV for welcoming Shein, resulting in the department store’s expulsion from a group representing French department stores. Disneyland Paris also decided to cancel plans to decorate BHV’s holiday window displays, signaling growing dissent. Shein’s arrival coincides with France’s efforts to implement an “anti-fast-fashion” bill, targeting practices similar to those of Shein and other online retailers like Temu and AliExpress, reinforcing the country’s robust stance against ultra fast fashion.