Austin Hoyt achieves lifelong dream by climbing The Process V16 – Gripped Magazine
On December 15th, Austin Hoyt successfully conquered The Process V16 (8C+) in the Buttermilks, marking his most challenging boulder ascent so far. This notorious climb was initially completed by Daniel Woods back in 2015 and is situated on the renowned Grandpa Peabody boulder, adjacent to Lucid Dreaming V15 and Devilution V16. The route remained an open project for several years before Woods finally claimed the first ascent. Subsequently, Zach Galla achieved the long-awaited second ascent in February 2024, followed by Sungsu Lee in December of the previous year, and Adam Shahar completing the fourth ascent in February of this year. A recent video capturing Hoyt’s triumphant climb has been recently released for viewing.
The Process serves as an extension of the challenging Social Distortion V13 problem, which was originally established by Matt Birch. Following the completion of the Social Distortion segment, The Process proceeds through a V14 sequence positioned high above the ground, culminating in a technical V9 slab exit within a no-fall territory. Due to the presence of fragile rock in certain sections of the climb, the route may have experienced some breakage over time, potentially increasing the difficulty level.
Reflecting on his accomplishment, Hoyt shared his childhood dream of conquering The Process. His admiration for Woods’ first ascent of the climb was so profound that he had a poster of the climb hanging above his bed since he was a child. Transitioning into adulthood, Hoyt continued to hold onto this dream of tackling a V16 difficulty boulder, particularly, The Process.
After several unsuccessful attempts in 2024, Hoyt realized that his mental preparedness was as crucial as his physical strength. Returning in 2025 with a clear mindset, unwavering determination, and immense support, he geared up to conquer The Process. In a moment of pure clarity and self-assurance, Hoyt made a remarkable breakthrough, navigating through the challenging series of moves with precision and control. His final triumphant move symbolized the culmination of years of dedication, practice, and mental fortitude.
In addition to his recent triumph on The Process, Hoyt boasts an impressive record, having conquered four V15 climbs to his name. From topping Laying in the Light V15 in April 2025, scaling Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming V15 in January, achieving the first ascent of Big Bad Wolf V15 in the Gunks in October 2024, to conquering Monkey Wedding V15 in Rocklands, South Africa, back in August 2023, his climbing prowess and resilience are truly commendable.