China’s Most Challenging Rock Climb
French climber Seb Bouin achieved a remarkable feat last year by conquering the most challenging route in China, El Gran Cabrón 5.15b (9b). Nestled in Shegeng Cave in Guang Xi province, this route represents an awe-inspiring climbing challenge. Despite the initial impression of the features appearing too immense for difficult climbing, the sheer magnitude of the wall reveals why it is now recognized as the most challenging line in the country. For a closer look at the rock and Bouin’s groundbreaking achievement, refer to the captivating video produced by Black Diamond.
Initially established by David Gambús, El Gran Cabrón embarks with a 5.13a/b section leading to a V8 boulder obstacle followed by a kneebar rest. The crux of the route presents itself as a demanding V11/12 boulder challenge involving vertical grips and pinches, succeeded by a cunning V8/9 boulder segment. Bouin encountered setbacks, falling five times due to minor errors at this juncture. The ascent culminates with a V7 boulder, where Bouin experienced a heartbreaking fall while reaching for the final hold.
Reflecting on his achievement, Bouin expressed, “It’s an incredible experience to find such a project and challenge myself in a setting like this. China leaves no one indifferent—I feel like this trip is opening my mind in so many ways. The distance, the unfamiliar culture, and this new way of life disorient me as much as they fascinate me. There are plenty of additional doubts that come with adapting, making the adventure all the more exciting.”
Upon encountering El Gran Cabrón, Bouin initially struggled to decipher the intricate movements bolted by David Gambús. The complex nature of climbing on this route, offering a plethora of strategies to navigate, surprised Bouin. He commended the quality of the rock and the engaging movement style of the route, praising its beauty and enjoyable climbing experience. The challenging sequences, characterized by pinches and physically demanding moves, resonated with Bouin’s passion for the sport.
Seb Bouin is renowned as one of the world’s most accomplished sport climbers, with El Gran Cabrón marking his eighteenth climb at this grade since his first ascent announcement in February 2025. His relentless pursuit of difficult routes led him to conquer his hardest climb, DNA 5.15d, after over 150 days of relentless effort in April 2022. Bouin’s impressive climbing resume includes ascents of formidable routes like Adam Ondra’s Change 5.15c and Wolf Kingdom 5.15c. His repertoire boasts other challenging repeats, such as Alex Megos’ Bibliographie 5.15c and Ondra’s Move 5.15b/c. Bouin’s unwavering dedication and talent are evident in his remarkable climbing achievements.